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In cases of spills they told DJs to immediately drop the equipment in bar sink and flood unit with club soda.


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Besides the distilled water and trace of sodium club soda bubbles agitate and dislodge the contaminates helping to float them away. A sugary, sticky mocha coffee drink spilled into a DJ mixer and did exactly as was preached. Once the unit was brought back to Rane service, they just used a heat gun to assure it was fully dried out. No damage occurred and other than some pot and switch lubrication, the servicing was minimal. Internal pedal cases and battery compartments can then be cleaned with WD WD is a water displacing chemical.

You can spray it anywhere in or on a pedal, but it can be tough to get out so I often use rags or Q-tips wetted with WD to clean the inside and outsides of pedals. You just don't want to leave a lot of inside, as it smells and can drip around. Potentiometers are one of the easiest damaged parts.

Analog Man uses Deoxit spray cleaner, I like the "Fader" type for pots as it leaves some lubricant. Spray inside, then quickly turn the pot back and forth slide your finger on the top of the knob several times, then tilt it to let any excess cleaner run out, you can catch it with a Q-tip. Jacks should also be cleaned with a Q-tip.

The Deoxit is best but WD will work. Also try to clean the tip of the jack, but be careful not to pull off the cotton inside the jack. Switches are usually pretty well sealed, but water can get inside and it may be very tough to get it out. It's very hard to get a cleaner inside the switch to wash it out.

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There is a video that shows how you can open a switch to repair it, if your switch has issues you can try that. But it may be best to replace the switch if it does not work well after the pedal had time to dry. Here is the youtube video of repairing a 3PDT switch Components like chips, transistors, capacitors, and resistors are generally not damaged by short periods of wetness. Foam or other soft materials used in pedals for holding in batteries, etc, should be replaced if possible as they will hold moisture.

You can use a hair dryer at some distance. Some plastic materials deform at relatively low temperatures. Compressed air will work well too but it should be dry, come compressors spit out water drops which will not help. And the full force of PSI can damage your circuit so don't hit it too hard with compressed air. Remember the order: rinse with distilled water rinse with alcohol clean and lubricate warm gently with hair dryer or warming oven. For items immersed in flood waters, the above approach can be tried, but the outlook is not promising.

Generally the conductive flood waters have had time to soak into the various insulating materials and are almost impossible to remove. Still, it may be worth a try, especially if you have the time, and possible success is worth the effort. Distilled water and alcohol are not very expensive. Most circuit boards are coated with varnish to resist moisture. In this case, wash repeatedly with distilled water. Use a soft brush to remove any remaining film such as mud. Then, the alcohol followed by the dryer. So save it for the very last step after you are sure things are clean.

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Your efforts may save part if not all of the equipment. Yes, my standards are much higher than that.


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All my items are cleaned, inspected, and tested by me personally, and will not be sold until that is done. I clean the effect with solvents to remove beer, sticker goop, and adhesive from old velcro etc. I clean the jacks, pots, and replace the battery clip if it's not in good shape.

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This condition grading is purely based on cosmetics. All effects, regardless of cosmetic condition, are in perfect working order, all original, and sound great unless otherwise noted. Dead mint. All items in all conditions are in perfect working order unless stated otherwise. No modifications or damage.

No rust or serious damage. Most of the lettering on the pedal is readable but some MXR effects writing comes off if you look at it funny! Any modifications knobs, etc will be listed.

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Most effects that I sell are in exc condition- they were used but not abused. Some paint is missing, maybe a dent, maybe a replaced switch or jack.

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Could have some surface rust. You should still be able to read the writing on the pedal, but probably not all. I rarely sell items in Good condition or less.


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Custom One-Off pedals I really want a name an expensive hard to find pedal can you build me one? Building a single pedal is VERY expensive, like when a car manufacturer builds a prototype or show car. To build ONE pedal, we have to find the parts sometimes takes days of hard work to find one obsolete part then order the parts. Then laying out and building one pedal takes a very long time, as does testing it to make sure it works. But it usually will not work, then debugging can take days.

That would be fine. But you may want to calibrate your ears to allowable noise limits in vintage time-based effects Analog delays, choruses, flangers, etc that use a Bucket Brigade chip.

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Turn your amp up so it's not too loud but you can hear it well. Adjust the effect for mid-range operation, at the same volume when on as off if adjustable. Stand 5 feet from your amp and turn the pedal on and off without playing. If there is noticeable "white noise" or crackling, the effect is noisier than I would sell, or I would sell it at a discount and advertise it as "noisy". Ibanez, Boss, etc should have almost no noise. Electro-Harmonix effects tend to be noisiest, with MXR close behind. Noise Gates I've got a long chain of all analog effects pedals, mostly Foxrox and your own analogman pedals, some others as well.

I was thinking it would be a good idea to get a noise gate, since i get a lot of noise when i start turning them on. It seems like there's not too many options, Any recommendations or alternatives? I don't recommend using a noise gate, it can only hurt your tone.

Most even sound bad when OFF as they are not true bypass.